Perhaps the best introduction to India is a drive from the airport through Delhi: the landscape quickly tells you that you are no longer in “The West.” Near Delhi, the land is completely flat and covered with reddish-brown rocky earth. There are no hills in the distance, but this is not saying much because the visibility is extremely limited due to a persistent “fog” in the air, which is made up of some combination of dust, automobile pollution, and smoke from the many wood burning fires. The latter especially gives the air a very distinct smoky sort of smell.
But what most distinguishes the Delhi landscape is the people. Firstly, that they are everywhere. On the sides of the streets, on the median, and as far as one can see on either side. They are very colorful—the women especially wear colorful scarves with beautiful designs. They are almost all actively involved in some activity, be it cleaning, begging, or transporting huge quantities of baskets or other goods.
Indians hold animals in high regard, and hence there are also animals everywhere. There are many dust colored dogs, which are very peaceful and keep their distance. There are also cats, parrots, monkeys (so I’m told), and of course the famous cows, which are the most sacred and wander the streets completely unharmed. I was told if you need to cross a busy street, adopt a cow and lead it across the street and you will have no problems! I have also been told if you happen to be in a car that hits a cow, get out and run, because the people will quickly tip the car and/or set it on fire!
I have been to Europe and the driving there is crazy, but the drivers here make Europeans look like senior citizens on their way to church. To describe driving as a free-for-all is pretty accurate—there are not really defined lanes and leaving more than literally a few inches between the car in front of and next to you is unheard of. Everyone seems to be constantly honking, but I have learned that this is a polite caution to automobiles/pedestrians/animals that you are about to cut in front of them. In addition to cars and buses everywhere, there are these little lawnmower-engine powered “auto-rickshaws,” which will take you anywhere in the city for under a dollar (if you know how to bargain). Amazingly, the system works well; there are very few accidents (although I’d like to see some statistics on this).
It is important to look and act like a local to be accepted into the communities in which we are working. To the extent of the former, we went shopping the other day, and picked out some Indian attire. It is typical for women to wear a somewhat long and baggy shirt (camise) with a scarf (dupatta). The men here typically don’t dress all that differently than in the west—usually a button down or collared shirt. Showing skin here is generally not done, so short sleeves are hardly seen.
